We began to understand what the man was doing.
In a giant tub, he heaved and shoved at a giant mass of dough.
He ripped out parts of it, patted them quickly into perfect little circles, and set them in rows on the crates.
I pulled out my phone and took a short video of the man working, muttering something about my phone being not as professional as the recording equipment we had outside, where our groupmates were fast asleep.
The man paused between throwing down discs of dough to stand hoveringly over the squishy balls, muttering something under his breath. It was rhythmic and urgent, and completely unintelligible to Sebastian and me. Neither of us spoke Arabic or French, let alone the unique dialect of the region we were in. We leaned in and tried to decipher what we were hearing.
What are we looking at? What are we hearing?
Prayer? At first we thought it must be some prayer. Or other religious chant.
Was he merely speaking to himself about this and that? Was he talking to himself about the strangers at his side?
Finally, we realized he was (probably) counting the balls of dough.
Suddenly, the day broke. The neighborhood cats came out to wind their bony, sparse backs against our ankles. Plump women in colorful clothing came out with baskets to buy the bread the man had baked. Our teammates woke up. We had a breakfast of the bread we had watched the man bake, cheese, and sweet tea with mint leaves. And we were on our way.
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